The tour around Puig de Tossals Verds makes every hiker’s heart beat faster. After a short climb, the first part of the route descends along the edge of a deep gorge with breathtaking views. Surefootedness is a must here, although a particularly narrow section is secured with an iron chain. Halfway through the circular hike there’s a perfect rest area before tackling the ascent counterclockwise around the mountain top.

Starting at the Cúber water reservoir at the foot of Puig Major you soon leave the trees behind. And enter a bizarre rocky world that can only be reached on foot or by donkey. Soon we pass the remains of a Cessna that crashed here many years ago.

Among Vultures

If you’re lucky, you might spot a few griffon vultures, a rare but always impressive sight. They love to circle in a thermal over the Torrent d’Almadrá, as if enjoying the breathtaking scenery.

In 2008 the species was carried to Mallorca by strong winds from a storm. And rather than leaving, they stayed and colonised the Tramuntana mountains.

Gorgeous Gorge

And as the path continues its steep descent, you will discover a historic water pipe on the other side of the ravine. It leads through several tunnels, part of an ingenious irrigation system on the island.

You are nearing Pas Llis now, the needle eye of the gorge. Actually, it looks more challenging than it really is. A chain helps you to safely pass the steep track.

Refugi de Tossals Verds

When you finally reach the top of an olive grove, the Refugi de Tossals Verds comes into view. A great place to stay overnight for GR 221 hikers, you may also just pause for a pamb oli and a cool drink.

Sit on the terrace, marvel at the Puig d’Alaró and swap stories with other hikers coming from Lluc, Orient or Sóller. Or visit the small garden with native plant species and the stone remains of an old oil mill.

Holm Oak Forest

The second part of the tour around Puig de Tossals Verds is quite different from the first. The path now leads through ancient holm oak forest, the landscape not as rugged as before but just as beautiful.

Going full circle you follow the concrete water channel that eventually crosses your way. Gorg Blau beckons like a gemstone. And indeed, the water collected and stored in the high mountains of the Tramuntana is a vital yet increasingly scarce source of life for the island.

Read more about the best Tramuntana routes, and circular hikes on Mallorca.