Not so long ago, there was but a historic mountain trail connecting the two remote Tramuntana villages. Today, the Cami Vell d’Estellencs allows for a secluded hike between the small coastal town and the mountain village of Puigpunyent. Whichever direction you choose, the route leads across beautiful varied terrain and offers magnificent views of the mountains and sea.
Since both destinations are accessible via interurban tib bus, you can do the hike either way. In Estellencs it starts at the old washhouse. A cobbled path leads along a narrow torrent, past high reeds, olive orchards and groves. Soon you’ll pass Son Fortuny, a large historic mansion and landmark dating back to the early 16th century.
Holm Oak Forest
Slowly, the way meanders upwards through ancient holm oak forest. Sunlight filters through the leaves and creates an almost magical atmosphere. The Japanese language even has a special word for this phenomenon. It’s called komorebi.
A few steps before passing the wall on the mountain ridge the great coastal view asks for a picnic. You’re mostly done with climbing here and can now turn the attention to the landscape of the southern Tramuntana. But also to the path, which is getting more rocky.
The Southern Tramuntana
Down in the valley you will come across the ruins of a brickyard and be surprised by the remnants of the irrigation system. Once channeling water from the mountains to the manufacture and the farmland. While the brickworks has long since been abandoned the agricultural use never ceased.
The last stretch runs along the magnificent Son Fortesa estate, its ample fields and orchards bearing fruit depending on the season. If you are lucky, the air is filled with the scent of lemons and oranges when you arrive at Puigpunyent.
Mountains and Sea
A couple of bars and cafés in the heart of the quiet little village invite you to take a break while waiting for the bus or before getting back. Join the locals at Ca’n Jordi opposite the town hall, or the cyclists under the bright yellow umbrellas of Mercat Tramuntana.
However, you can just as easily do the hike in reverse, starting with a coffee in Puigpunyent. And then enjoy a wonderful view of Estellencs and the coast on your descent. In any case, hiking the Camí Vell d’Estellencs you’re in for a treat.
Read more about hiking in the Tramuntana, here.